My third and final "jeanius" project for The Refashioners community challenge is another attempt to replicate a popular style using an unconventional material - specifically a Chanel-inspired boxy, cropped jacket, typically made with tweedy wool, but here made with a pair of men's black denim jeans.
I hadn't noticed until I started disassembly that the back pockets were riveted at the top corners. So I picked out the seams and folded them upward... and found some seriously gross stuff. How does one get sand in their back pockets? Are they wearing their black jeans to the beach? Really? Anywho, I felt the need to run them through the wash a second time before proceeding. Once they were clean, I picked out all the leg seams and cut the legs from the waistband, just under the pocket rivets and around the zipper. Then I pressed out all the seam folds to take stock of my fabric.
I trimmed away the bottom hems to avoid the discolored bits. While they are interesting, they wouldn't really fit with the Chanel look, I don't think. Then I measured the length of the front leg panels - 40 inches. I wanted my front jacket panels to be slightly longer than the back to allow for 1.5 inches to be absorbed into the bust darts. So I cut the legs straight across to give two different lengths - 19.25 inches and 20.75 inches.
I used my good ol' tunic pattern, or at least the top portion of it, to cut the back panels from the lower half of the legs. Then I flipped them up to cut out the slightly longer front panels.
I cut the sleeves from the back leg panels. Then I serged all the edges that will be seamed - the sides and shoulders of the front panels; the sides, shoulders, and center back of the back panels; and all around the sleeves except for the wrist edge. I then lined up my front panels and cut a deeper scoop neck.
I sewed the shoulder seams and center back and pressed the seam allowances. I added my bust darts coming in from the side edges.
Next I pinned, sewed, and pressed the sleeve seams, then joined the sides and inner sleeves as well.
With my jacket mostly constructed, it was time to add the embellishments! To mimic the fringed border often found on Chanel jackets, I cut my black denim remnants into strips a little under an inch wide. Then I grabbed a bit of white denim left over from my faux shearling vest and cut it into strips as well, slightly over an inch wide.
I layered by strips black on top of white and began sewing them along all the edges of my jacket, which were also left unserged for intentional fraying. When I ran out of one strip, I simply placed another end-to-end and kept sewing.
When I reached a corner, I just trimmed off the excess. I also added a second line of stitching parallel to the first, about 1/4 inches away. When I turned a corner, I stuck the ends of the new strips under the loose flap of the perpendicular strips. Once all my border strips were added, I snipped every 1/4 inch on each side to help the fraying process. As with my shearling vest, my hands were super sore by the end of all that snipping. Why do I keep doing this to myself?
I didn't feel a Chanel-inspired jacket would be complete without a couple little pockets. So I cut out two squares from my remnants, snipped the corners, and pressed the edges under. Then I lined the top edge with black and white strips as well.
I pinned and sewed my pockets in place and snipped the border fringe on them too. Then I tossed my jacket in the laundry to get those edges nicely frayed. Finally, I hand-sewed five sets of hook-n-eyes to the under side of the front edges. I thought that would be the best way to add a closure without disrupting the look of the fringed border.
And there you have it! Just in the nick of time for today's submission deadline!