Monday, October 13, 2008

Heelhead Scarf

While brain-storming ways to add a hood to a scarf, I had an epiphany. Why not use short-rows to make the scarf flare out for the hood and then narrow again afterward? Like the heel of a sock, but for your head. Brilliant! It shall be done.

Now available as a free pdf!
Download through Ravelry!

Materials:
Lion Brand Wool-Ease Worsted [20% wool, 80% acrylic; 197yds/180m per 3oz/85g skein]; three skeins in color of your choice
[Sample was knit with three skeins of 107 Blue Heather]
Pair of US #9/5.5mm straight needles or one circular needle
Two stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:
Scarf Length = 45in/114cm
Scarf Width = 4in/10cm
Hood Width = 13in/33cm at widest point, 6in/15cm at top

Gauge:
17 sts/24 rows = 4in/10cm in stockinette stitch

Click here for Abbreviations

Special Abbreviations:
s2sk = sl2 tog as if to knit, sl1 as if to knit, k3tog tbl = insert right needle into next 2 stitches as if to knit them together, but just slip them to right needle, insert right needle into next stitch as if to knit, but just slip it to right needle, insert left needle from left to right through all three stitches and knit all together through back loop
m1L = make 1 left-leaning = insert left needle from front to back under bar between next two stitches and knit it through back loop
m1R = make 1 right-leaning = insert left needle from back to front under bar between next two stitches and knit it
m1Lp = make 1 left-leaning = insert left needle from front to back under bar between next two stitches and purl it through back loop
m1Rp = make 1 right-leaning = insert left needle from back to front under bar between next two stitches and purl it

Pattern:
First Tail:
CO 23 sts.
Rows 1-5, 7, 9: sl1, p21, k1.
Rows 6, 8: sl1, p4, k4, p5, k4, p4, k1.
Row 10: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, BC4, p4, k1.
Repeat Rows 5-10 49 more times, or until scarf reaches from shoulder to desired length. Repeat Rows 5-7 once more.

Increase Rows:
Row 1: sl1, p4, k4, m1Lp, p5, m1Rp, k4, p4, k1 - 25 sts.
Even Rows: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Row 3: sl1, p4, FC4, m1Lp, p7, m1Rp, BC4, p4, k1 - 27 sts.
Row 5: sl1, p4, k4, m1Lp, p4, pm, k1, pm, p4, m1Rp, k4, p4, k1 - 29 sts.
Rows 7, 11: sl1, p4, k4, p5, sm, m1L, k to next marker, m1R, sm, p5, k4, p4, k1 - 2 sts inc'd each time.
Row 9: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, sm, m1L, k to next marker, m1R, sm, p5, BC4, p4, k1 - 2 sts inc'd each time.
Repeat Rows 7-12 until there are 75 sts total, ending after Row 10.

Decreasing Short-Rows:
Row 1: sl1, p4, k4, p5, sm, k46, turn.
Row 2: yo-b, p45, turn.
Row 3: yo, k44, turn.
Row 4: yo-b, p43, turn.
Row 5: yo, k42, turn.
Row 6: yo-b, p41, turn.
Row 7: yo, k40, turn.
Row 8: yo-b, p39, turn.
Continue in this manner, knitting/purling one fewer st each row, until...
Row 21: yo, k26, turn.
Row 22: yo-b, p25, turn.

Increasing Short-Rows:
Row 1: yo, k25, am, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: yo-b, p26, ssp, turn.
Row 3: yo, k27, am2, k3tog, turn.
Row 4: yo-b, p28, sssp, turn.
Row 5: yo, k29, am2, k3tog, turn.
Row 6: yo-b, p30, sssp, turn.
Row 7: yo, k31, am2, k3tog, turn.
Row 8: yo-b, p32, sssp, turn.
Continue in this manner, knitting/purling one more st each row, until...
Row 21: yo, k45, am2, k3tog, turn.
Row 22: yo-b, p46, sssp, turn.
Row 23: yo, k47, am, p2tog, (remove marker & replace before p2tog), p4, k4, p4. k1.
Row 24: sl1, p to 1 st before second marker, ssp (remove marker & replace before ssp), p to last st, k1.
You should now have only 75 sts again.

Decrease Rows:
Row 1, 5: sl1, p4, k4, p5, sm, k2tog, k to 2 sts before next marker, ssk, sm, p5, k4, p4, k1 - 2 sts dec'd each time.
Even Rows: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Row 3: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, sm, k2tog, k to 2 sts before next marker, ssk, sm, p5, BC4, p4, k1 - 2 sts dec'd each time.
Repeat Rows 1-6 until there are 31 sts remaining, ending after Row 2.
Row 45: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, remove marker, s2sk, p5, BC4, p4, k1 - 29 sts.
Even Rows, 46-52: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Row 47:sl1, p4, k4, p2tog, p7, ssp, k4, p4, k1 - 27 sts.
Row 49: sl1, p4, k4, p2tog, p5, ssp, k4, p4, k1 - 25 sts.
Row 51: sl1, p4, FC4, p2tog, p3, ssp, BC4, p4, k1 - 23 sts.

Second Tail:
Rows 1, 3: sl1, p4, k4, p5, k4, p4, k1.
Even Rows: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Row 5: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, BC4, p4, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-6 49 more times, or until scarf reaches same length as first tail.
Repeat Rows 1-2 once more.
Repeat Row 2 three more times.
BO all sts and cut yarn. Weave in ends. Block if desired.
Modification Ideas:
- Add fringe
- Exchange the simple cable for a more intricate design
- For a pointy-er hood, work more short-rows; for a less pointy hood, work fewer short-rows
- Add a pom-pom on the top of the hood
- Make the tails shorter, tie them together, turn it upside down and you've got a shoulder bag

Feel free to comment here with questions.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not try to sell it or any product made from it. Thank you.

71 comments:

  1. Hi Carissa!

    You are so taleted! I am wondering if you would be interested in trading beenies for hair clips. Visit my site at www.sallysclippies.blogspot.com.

    I am looking for basic beenies for my nephews for christmas. I don't even care what colors you use. Let me know if you are interested!

    Sarah
    Sally's Clippies
    www.sallysclippies.blogspot.com

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  2. *sighs happily*

    this pleases me so much, you dont even KNOW! haha

    brilliant brilliant brilliant xD

    also the pattern seems really really well written

    WOOHOO!!! i am definitely making this ^_^

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  3. Hi Carissa, I just finished the first tail (yay!) and I have a question about the transition between the first tail and the increase rows.

    In the "first tail" pattern, the odd rows are pretty much straight purling across, while the even rows create the cables. In the "increase rows" pattern, it looks like the odd rows create the cables (and the increases), while the even rows are straight purling across.

    Wouldn't this reverse the right and wrong sides of the knitting? Am I missing something? Should I add an extra row of straight purling across after the first tail pattern, before I start the increase rows?

    I hope my questions make sense! Thanks for your help.

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  4. Gina, you're right. That was a typo. I accidentally left out a sentence at the end of the First Tail section: "Repeat Rows 5-7 once more." So you'll end the first tail after an odd row. Then I started again with row 1 on the increasing section. Thanks for catching it for me!

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  5. Thanks for responding so quickly! It works now. :) Happily knitting away....

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  6. hi carissa...

    i'm a noob knitter, so i can´t full understand the pattern XD

    i want to make it simple... just don't know how to increase or decreasse without the design...

    could you please make it more simple for me?...

    mom helps me to understand some mags, but she doesn't speak english at all, so i'm helpless now.

    i do really like these headwear so i will thank you lots if you could help me

    nice work
    thx

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  7. ok ok ok... my panic is begining to run away... i'm understanding pretty better... but... i'm still thanking you if you help me a little just with the number of stitches in the increase rows, decreasing short-rows, increasing short-rows, and decreasing rows phases... i hope tu fully understand it at morning...

    thankyou, very much! XD

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  8. I've added the stitch counts for the increasing and decreasing sections. However, the short-row sections are a little fuzzier because you're adding yo's every row, but you're also not working the entire row before you turn around. As long as you knit or purl however many are stated on each row, you should be okay.

    If you need any more help with increasing and decreasing, this site has lots of instructional videos.

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  9. Gah, confusion! I've sussed out most of the pattern (I'm newish, this is probably the biggest thing I've ever done), but the thing I'm stuck on is 'replacing' the markers after the short row decreases. Do you mean putting the markers *after* the p2tog/ssp, so that it comes 'before' those stitches when you're going across the next row? Because if you're knitting to the marker and then doing a stitch, but you're supposed to put that marker before the stitch you're doing- yeah. Confusion. Help?

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  10. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  11. Since the markers are currently between the two stitches you'll purl together or ssp, you'll need to move the markers to complete that stitch. You'll want to put the markers back so that they are to the inside of the decreases. Does that make more sense?

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  12. Yes, yes it does. Thank you! <3

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  13. hello---
    incr, short rows... what does am stand for?

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  14. This is such an awesome idea! I want to make it as soon as I free up my needles (I am making your artoo hat right now for my boyfriend for x-mas). Thanks for putting your instructions up!

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  15. am = adjust mount
    Basically, just turn the stitch around so it's sitting the right way on the needle.

    All of my frequently used abbreviations are here.

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  16. Hi Carissa
    Love this design. I'm at the part that says decreasing short rows. So on Row 2-- yo-b does this end up creating a stitch?
    Or...I did try a few rows and it looked like I was going to create a seam down the center of the hat that would be sewn together later. Is this right or am I totally off here?
    Thanks for the help.
    Brenda

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  17. Yes, the yo-b will create a stitch, but only temporarily. These yarn overs will get decreased away in the Increasing Short-Rows section. I use yarn overs as an alternate way of doing short-rows; some people prefer the wrap and turn method.

    No, there won't be a seam to sew up. By working fewer and fewer stitches each row in the Decreasing Short-Rows section, then working more and more stitches each row in the Increasing Short-Rows section, you're creating a curve to fit your head - no sewing necessary! Short rows can be used the same way to round the heel of a sock, or create bust shaping in a sweater. Does that help?

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  18. thanks for the pattern :-)

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  19. Very clever,
    Thank You for the pattern.

    I like it.

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  20. This is wonderful! You must have been listening in on an extension phone when my daughter asked for this very thing last week! I had no idea how I was going to come up with a pattern. You're wonderful. Thank you.

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  21. Is there any way to maybe have you create one for me! It's been hard to find one that's uni-sex, over 150-200 bucks or sold out! If so PLEASE let me know.

    Marv77@charter.net

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  22. I really like this pattern. I'm halfway done with the second scarf and knit it every moment I get. Garter stitch, stockinette, cables, increases, decreases and short rows. I like that I can do all of that in one pattern without it feeling like a daunting task. I mean, at first glance, it looks hard but it's easy. And because of this pattern, I taught myself to finally cable without a cable needle. :)
    Only thing is, my head is huge, so I did an extra cable round, bringing the total increased stitches to 53 instead of 47. So, each cable round on the increase adds about an inch in width and height. I would have done even better with two cable rounds of increase. I couldn't quite understand the measurements. I'm assuming the hood would be baggy on a 20-22 inch head and my head is 26 inches.

    But anyway, the patten is a delight. Thank you very much for this. The other hooded scarf patterns I've seen are boring.

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  23. Brilliant idea! Looks fabulous.
    Keep it in mind and thanks very Duthch!

    Laiza
    Just recently joined Ravelry

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  24. Carissa, thank you for this pattern. I love it! I have finished the first tail and am about to start the increase section. I have a question: you say "Repeat Rows 7-12 until there are 75 sts total, ending after Row 10." But there are only 10 rows written for this section. Am I missing something here? Thanks!
    wendydancer@gmail.com

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  25. Row 11 is the same as row 7. And row 12 is another even row, so it'll be "sl1, p to last st, k1."

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  26. Wow! This looks great! Thanks for sharing! =)

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  27. This is going on needles today to make a Christmas gift for my mother. Thanks for the great pattern!

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  28. At 'Increasing Short-Rows' section, what does 'am' mean?
    Thanks
    Denise

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  29. I love the pattern, but the headscarf part is too deep. It pratically covers my face. How can I adjust it to make the headscarf part not be so deep? I need it to be about 1 1/2" shorter on the flat top piece.
    Thanks so much for a great pattern.

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  30. am = adjust mount, i.e., turn the next stitch(es) around to be mounted correctly on the needle. For future reference, all my frequently used abbreviations are here.

    Janice, you have a couple options:
    1. You could work fewer increases before starting the short-rows. This would produce a smaller hood in general. It'd be more like a hat with really long ear flaps.
    2. Working the same number of increases but fewer short-rows would create a hood the same size around the edges, but shallower.
    To get the fit you're looking for may take some trial and error. Good luck!

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  31. Hi, in the decrease what do yo and yo-b stand for?

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  32. Yo = yarn over, Yo-b = yarn over backward
    For future reference, all of my frequently used abbreviations are here.

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  33. I was just looking on your blog comments to see if anyone else posted anything about the short row seams looking wonky but I didn't find any alluding to this & I see that tho your pattern went out 2 + years ago, you are still responding to queries so...the side with the yo-b's is looking awesome but the other side with the just the YO's is looking pretty loose & ugly, not the same on each side. I'm thinking of ripping back to the start of the short rows and using some other method but 1st wondering if you might have any suggestions about this? Thanks so much for your help & congrats on this awesome pattern that is still going strong!
    Dain

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  34. It may just be tension problem. Perhaps, if you wrap your yarnovers differently than I do, it could lead to looser loops. The way I do it is to pull the working yarn up over the right-hand needle, from front to back, before knitting the first stitch on that short-row. If that's what you've been doing, them I don't know what the problem might be. You're welcome to use any short-row method you like, such as a wrap-and-turn, instead. The method is really not the important part, as long as you end up with something you like in the end.

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  35. Just made this for my 3 y.o. niece & it turned out adorable! I used a finer, very soft, chenille type yarn on size 5 needles & left out the cables. It turned out exactly like I wanted - thanks so much for the pattern!

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  36. I am not a sophisticated knitter so please bear with me if this is a stupid question. I love this pattern and I have managed to knit it through to the section on “decreasing short rows”. In the previous section, the instructions indicate to stop after there are a total of 75 sts and row 10. I managed to get to 75 total sts but this was on row 11. Do I need to go back through rows 7, 8, 9, and 10 before I start the decreasing short rows? It looks like it picks up where I left off after finishing the turns but I am not really sure.

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  37. Do you mean that you have 75 sts after finishing row 11? Or you have 75 sts and you're about to start row 11? The latter should be true. If not, perhaps you missed a set of increases somewhere. Either way, it doesn't matter that much. As long as you pick up the cabling pattern in the same place after you've completed the short-rows, you should be fine. Hope that helps!

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  38. Hi Carissa - First off I wanted to tell you that I love this pattern! I do have a question, on Decrease Row #45 (before the Second Tail) what does s2sk mean?

    Thank you in advance.

    Michele

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  39. s2sk = slip 2 together (as if to k2tog), slip 1 as if to knit, knit all 3 sts tog through the back loop.

    For future reference, I include all uncommon abbreviations at the beginning of each pattern.

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  40. what is the difference between a sssk and a s2sk? when i've broken them down to what they mean they seem to be the same thing just worded different, or did i miss something?
    Also what does the 'am' mean? cheers

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  41. sssk means to slip those three stitches as if to knit, individually, then knitting all three together through the back loop. This forms a double-decrease with the right-most stitch in the front.

    s2sk means to slip the first two stitches together (as if you were going to do a k2tog), then slip the third stitch by itself, then knit all three together through the back loop. This forms a double-decrease with the center stitch in the front.

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  42. From my Abbreviations page:
    am = adjust mount = slip 1 purlwise, slip back to left-hand needle knitwise

    You're just turning around the yarnover from the previous row, so that it's facing the same direction as the other stitches.

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  43. Im new at knitting and i tried making more then the 75 stitches and now i have no idea how to do the Decreasing Short-Rows with the extra stitched...i would greatly appreciate it if you could respond to this

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  44. However many extra stitches you have, add that to the plain k/p stitches on rows 1-8 of the Decreasing Short-Rows section. For example, if you increased to 85 sts, instead of 75 sts, that's 10 extra. So...
    Row 1: sl1, p4, k4, p5, sm, k56 (instead of k46), turn.
    Row 2: yo-b, p55, turn.
    Row 3: yo, k54, turn.
    Row 4: yo-b, p53, turn.
    Row 5: yo, k52, turn.
    Row 6: yo-b, p51, turn.
    Row 7: yo, k50, turn.
    Row 8: yo-b, p49, turn.
    You'll continue like this until...
    Row 31 (not 21): yo, k26, turn.
    Row 32: yo-b, p25, turn.

    Then Increasing Short-Rows will begin as written in the pattern, but you'll continue until...
    Row 31 (not 21): yo, k55 (not 45), am2, k3tog, turn.
    Row 32: yo-b, p56, sssp, turn.
    Row 33: yo, k57, am, p2tog, (remove marker & replace before p2tog), p4, k4, p4. k1.
    Row 34: sl1, p to 1 st before second marker, ssp (remove marker & replace before ssp), p to last st, k1.
    Then you should be back up to your original 85 sts again.

    Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions.

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  45. This is such a beautiful piece!!

    You're a very talented lady.

    I can't wait to try making one for myself!

    Thank You!!

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  46. So pretty! Love the details and shaping. I linked to this page on my blog this morning if you want to check it out. :) http://tinyurl.com/hoodedscarves

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  47. I can't wait to cast this on!

    I got a wonderful Merino just waiting, but I have to slightly recalculate before I start. I plan to make "braids" instead of your cable pattern, make the tails wider and stitch them together to form a snood/cowl thingy with a hood.

    I fell in love instantly with this, but I have to make it my own ;) Keep up the good work!

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  48. Glad you like it! Let me know if you have any question, or need help with your calculations.

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  49. I just got to row 22 of increasing short rows. At the point sssp, I only have 2 stitches before the marker. Did I do something wrong, or should I move the marker and keep going?

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  50. Hhmmm... You shouldn't have to move your stitch markers until rows 23 and 24 of the increasing short-rows section. It's not a huge problem though; as long as you either ssp or sssp any yarn-overs with the next regular stitch afterward, this should close up any holes that the short-rows would create. If you have to move your stitch markers to do that, go ahead.

    Once all yarn-overs have been handled, you'll want to count all your stitches and throw in any increase or decrease to get back to the right stitch count. Hope that helps!

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  51. I must be exceedingly stupid, because I've been struggling with this pattern for the better part of a year. What throws be off is the 'yo-b' part, particularly how to do /any/ yarn over after turning the work, when the yarn is attached to the left needle. I just cannot wrap my mind around this. It wouldn't be so bad if there was a video showing how to do this, as I'm a visual learner and just reading instructions on how to do this is very frustrating as I don't "get" it.

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  52. Oh no! I'm sorry you've been struggling with this so long. Let me see if I can help

    Lucy Neatby has two excellent videos for working a standard yarn over at the beginning of row, one for knit and one for purl. And then this video demonstrates the difference between a standard yarn over and a reverse, or backward, yarn over.

    Unfortunately, I can't find a video for a backward yarn over that is also at the beginning of a row, but I'll try to explain. Since you'll be doing the yo-b before a purl row, you'll do something similar to what Lucy shows in the first video above. You'll pass your right-hand needle under the working yarn before purling the first stitch, but from the opposite side. So instead of going up and under the working yarn before you knit, you'll go down and under the working yarn before you purl.

    I hope that makes sense, but if it doesn't please let me know. I certainly don't want you to spend any more time frustrated with this pattern.

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  53. Thank you for your help, but I managed to figure it out. After some perseverance and a bit of backpedaling I got it. Though I'm not sure it was in the same manner you described. I simply kept the yarn behind and between the needles on the purl side, and in the front between the needles on the knit side. It seemed to work and it looks the same as all the other projects I've seen, so happy. Again, thank you for the help. This really is a lovely pattern. I'm actually knitting it as a late birthday/Christmas gift for my sister, and I'm sure she will love it. :)

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  54. I'm glad to hear it all worked out. I'm sorry I wasn't of much help though. Please let me know if you ever have any of questions, and I'll see if I can make it more clear.

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  55. Hello Carissa!
    This is so lovely ^^

    Unfortunately, I don't know how to Knit and I just started out learning Crochet. Can you please post a Video of how to Crochet this? Please?

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  56. I'm having a hard time getting the right number of stitches at by the end of the "Increasing short rows" section. Just to clarify...in the decrease and increase short row sections, am I to include the first knit or purl after the yo/yo-b in the count of stitches that follows the yo?

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  57. Yes, the stitch immediately following the yo or yo-b is counted as part of the next instruction. For example, "yo, k25" means there will be 26 stitches on your needle afterward.

    I hope that answers your question. If not, please let me know.

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  58. After the increasin rows, why are there two diff pic of hoods, do I pick one or is it all one pattern, Im confused. One hoodie looks pointy, the other looks rounded... HELP!

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    1. It's the same hood pictured from different angles. The first pic shows the hood folded with the scarf tails together; the second has the scarf tails on opposite sides.

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  59. Love this, making it for my sister that lost her hair due to chemo.Does doing a yo-B put 3 stitches on the right needle? Thank you

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    1. Glad you like it! Hope your sister does as well!
      A yo-b is just a backwards yarnover, where the yarn is wrapped around the right-hand needle the opposite direction as usual. It should only increase one stitch. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.

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  60. Hi Carissa. Thank you for a wonderful pattern. I am having a little bit of trouble understanding one part. I read through all of the comments to see if it was already addressed, but was not. I am left-handed and knit left-handed, so some patterns can be confusing. My swirls end up going the opposite directions and stuff like that. I have finish the first tail and don't quite understand the increasing on the next portion. I would be using the right needle instead of the left needle, correct? And is the increase stitch supposed to be in the last stitch of the cable or the purl stitch? And do I need to switch the left and right increases and decreases or are they ok as they read for me? All my life I have been shown different things and then told to just do the opposite. Sometimes that is not an easy thing to do, but oh well, that's my left-handed world... :) Thanks for helping with my backwards confusion...

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    1. The increases should actually fall between the last stitch of the cable and the first purl stitch. To do the m1Lp, you'll pick up the bar between the last cable stitch and the first purl by inserting the right needle under it from front to back, and then purl into back of this new stitch. That should give you the mirror image of what my right-handed m1Lp would look like, so you would not need to switch the left and right increases and decreases.

      Hope that helps! Please let me know if you hit any more snags along the way!

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    2. Thank you. I am going to go try it now. That makes more sense to me because I didn't quite understand what the "bar" was, but now I do. :)

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    3. Is it supposed to leave a hole there? I am not sure how to purl into the back.

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    4. No, it shouldn't leave a hole. Here's a video I found for a left-handed purl tbl. Let me know if that's still unclear.

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  61. Thank you for all the help! I am on the second part of the scarf now. It is beautiful! I was able to look up a couple of more stitches on the videos. My son's girlfriend is going to love this! Thanks again... Lori...

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    1. Fantastic! Glad to hear it's working out!

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